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Bagni di San Filippo in Tuscany one hundred percent takes the crown as Italy’s most stunning hot springs. Although regularly shunned from the spotlight by Saturnia, I guarantee that Bagni di San Filippo hot springs have absolutely nothing to envy from their notorious neighbors.
Situated in Southern Tuscany in the lush region of the Val d’Orcia, these hot springs are a true gem. Nestled right in the middle of the Monte Amiata forests, the mineral rich waters of the Fosso Bianco creek have over time sculpted the most spectacular limestone terraces. The scenery is entirely immersed in nature – a true jaw-dropping moment. And get this… they are not only more remote and less busy than Saturnia, but they are also completely FREE!
In this guide you will find the answers to any questions you might have when visiting the Bagni San Filippo hot springs. From practical information to tips and recommendations, this post covers it all – so, let’s get to it!
Post Contents
How to Get to Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
So, first thing’s first is actually getting to the site. If you’re wondering if you can get to the hot springs using public transportation, unfortunately that is not a very viable option. Supposedly there is a bus you can catch from the Chiusi-Chianciano Terme train station, but I wouldn’t advise it. The thermal baths are located in a pretty remote part of the countryside- your easiest and quickest way to getting there is hands down by renting a car.
To get to the thermal springs you are going to want to type into your GPS, ‘La Balena Bianca’- this will lead you right up to the entrance of a walking path that descends down to the river.
Depending on which direction you’re coming from, directions will be different. As you get closer however, everyone from any direction will have to switch from the SR2 to the SP61 and then to a final smaller one-way road named ‘Via del Fosso Bianco.’ Don’t worry, there are signs indicating the hot springs!
Parking at the Thermal Baths
There is metered parking lining most of the one-way road we just talked about (via del fosso bianco) leading down to the entrance. In high season you might not find parking close to the entrance, but in low season it is not uncommon to be one of the only cars there. The parking fee is hourly at 1.70 euro per hour or 5 euro for 3 hours.
**Metered Parking in Italy – don’t forget that as a general rule, you don’t have to pay for metered parking on Sundays in Italy! Double check to see if signs have any exceptions or ask someone in the vicinity to make sure, but generally, metered parking is free of charge on Sundays.
Walking down to the Bagni San Filippo Hot Springs
So, once you get to the entrance, there is a walking dirt path that leads down to the river (sentiero del fosso bianco). Once you reach the river you will come across a small wooden bridge that crosses over onto the other side. Before crossing, if you look on the banks of the creek (on the side you are on) you can already spot a first pool. This pool isn’t anywhere near as glorious as the pools downstream, but we did stop at this pool several times when visiting in the rain. The trees made for a great natural umbrella!
Once you cross the little wooden bridge, you are going to flank the creak and make your way downstream. As you make your way downhill you will start to see waterfalls and pools that get larger and deeper (and as a result warmer!). The calcium carbonate deposits get denser and denser until you finally reach the highlight of your visit to Bagni di San Filippo- the White Whale!
Bagni di San Filippo Map
Since the area can be a bit confusing, here is a map where I have highlighted the walking route that will get you down to the White Whale.
The White Whale – Fosso Bianco
It’s not difficult to see why the spot is called Balena Bianca, or White Whale. If you look closely at the top of the chalky formations, it is easy to make out a form that looks like a whale’s mouth.
Here, at Fosso Bianco, the thermal waters can reach a staggering temperature of 48 C degrees (that is roughly 120F!). There are different pools and spring flows you can choose from depending on your preference of water temperature and/or depth.
*BEWARE* Please beware that as you get closer to the source of the spring, the water gets increasingly hotter and can potentially cause burns.
The mineral-rich waters turn the color of the springs into a soft milky turquoise that so beautifully contrasts with the glistening limestone and plush surrounding woods. I remember thinking that the terraces reminded me of a warmer and silkier version of a glacier– just breathtaking. (*You might want to bring sunglasses! If the weather is particularly sunny, the whitewashed formations can get blindingly bright!*)
OFF-LIMITS – You will probably see people try to climb all the way up to the whale’s mouth. This is not allowed as the area is susceptible to crumbling. DO NOT CLIMB the limestone formations for your safety – you also most probably will get burned!
Benefits of Soaking in Thermal Water
The healing properties of thermal waters have been used for millennia. Benefits span from helping circulation to relieving joint pain to improving the appearance of skin. Plus, soaking in warm waters is known to relieve stress! It’s the whole package, mind and body!
How Long Should You Soak for? Alternate between soaking (20 min max each time) and cooling off. Listen to your body as well— if you start to feel lightheaded get out of the water.
Practical Information on Visiting Bagni di San Filippo
You should know that Bagni di San Filippo are completely public. This means there are NO FACILITIES (no bathrooms, changing rooms, clothes hanger/rack, benches, tables, trashcans) and the hot springs are not maintained. This means that no one cleans the area for trash, or cleans the water from leaves or tiny critters. Also, the path down to the White Whale is a true forest trail – this means it is not paved in any way. This means the following:
- Make sure you go to the bathroom before descending down to the hot springs
- If you’re afraid of getting dirty or are expecting pristine waters, this hot spring is not for you. The thermal springs are completely natural so the mud you find is 100% natural and you will find leaves and sticks in the pools.
- Pack your trash out – please follow the NO TRACE principle
- The trail is not suitable for those that need a walker or wheelchair
There are also a couple other things to keep in mind when going to these hot springs. The following items can help you avoid any hassle.
What Should you Bring to the Hot Springs?
Bring Water Shoes
As you will be walking around the pools, you’ll find all sorts of textures on the floor. Similar to a lake, you’ll find rocks, pebbles, squishy mud, and slippery muck. If you want to be comfortable and not get hurt, (and if squishiness grosses you out), water shoes will save your life.
Bring a Wet Bag
It can be quite common to remember a change of clothes only to forget a bag to put your wet stuff in. Although you can use a simple plastic bag, the sulfur smell won’t be as properly contained as it would be in a wet bag. If you don’t want all of your backpack contents smelling like sulfur and you want to be certain everything else remains dry, I suggest bringing a wet bag.
Where Can You Store Your Stuff? Note that there is nowhere to hang or place your stuff. If you’re lucky, you might be able to hang them on a branch or perch them on a rock. If all the clever spots have been taken, you might just have to just place your backpack on the ground (which is generally moist).
What NOT to Do at the Hot Springs
As in all circumstances, just like there are things you should do, there are some things you SHOULDN’T do.
Don’t Wear a Nice Bathing Suit
Although sulfur has some fantastic healing benefits, it does unfortunately come with a side of stink. If you can’t rinse off your bathing suit with cold water and soap right after your soak, it may become more difficult to get the smell out. This didn’t happen to me at the San Filippo springs, but I did have to throw my suit out after visiting Saturnia.
Don’t Wear Jewelry
Again, sulfur is the culprit here. Sulfur can tarnish silver and gold and will most definitely tarnish sterling silver. It’s not a given, but better to be safe than sorry!
*Picnic Tip* Instead of packing your lunch, opt to get a sandwich at Bar La Cascata, right at the entrance of the path AFTER your swim. The café has a nice wood stove that will warm you up and their cured meats are delicious. Top off your afternoon with a nice glass of wine there.
Don’t Get your Hair Wet
The minerals in the thermal waters can leave your hair feeling quite rough and dry for the next few days. I don’t recommend getting it wet – consider tying it up!
Best time to Visit Bagni di San Filippo
The best time to visit the Bagni San Filippo hot springs is in the shoulder season. So, April-May or September-November. In the summer months it can get quite crowded and hot.
In the spring and fall, the hot springs are much less crowded and give way to a much more intimate and relaxing experience. Plus, the contrast of the steamy waters with the brisk fall/spring air really makes for a cozy soak. Getting undressed is painful and getting out of the water is even more torturous, brrrrr… but I promise the exclusivity you will get is worth it. Seriously, getting to have a forest all to yourself as you soak, relax, and listen to the murmuring river honestly has no price!
Scenery & Seasons – during autumn the foliage turns browner and redder. The thermal water mixes with rainwater resulting in a less turquoise but a murkier green/grey color. If you have your heart set on more turquoise waters or vibrant green leaves, you should opt to visit in the springtime.
READ MORE: Most beautiful places in the Tuscan Countryside – Locations and Tips!
Spas and Wellness Centers around Bagni San Filippo
While you’re in Bagni di San Filippo, you might want to also add a day to indulge in one of the many stunning Spas and Wellness Centers in the area.
Here are a couple wonderful Spas I have been to that I absolutely loved!
Fonte Verde Tuscan Resort & Spa
I loved soaking in their infinity pool, the view was just exquisite! Just 35 minutes away from San Filippo, this hotel offered day spa packages at just 59 euro! Or if you’re thinking of splurging you can even stay overnight (although I can’t vouch for this as I only visited on a day-spa entry)!
Castello di Velona
Located on a vineyard, the remoteness of this castle makes you feel regal. With an outdoor thermal pool on their terrace, this resort is pure bliss. Day spa entrances are available starting at 60 euro (email them for information on packages), or if you want to check off staying in a castle overnight, you can do that (however again, I can’t speak for this as I only went as a day-spa guest!). *This resort is not open all year-round and closes during the winter*
You can of course opt for the Terme San Filippo, right at the base of the Fosso Bianco, after the White Whale. Unfortunately, it was closed every time I went to the Bagni so I cannot vouch for its wellness center.
Agriturismi & Farm-Stays
When it comes to actual accommodations, we usually opt for less expensive nightly rates than what resorts charge, and we absolutely LOVE a more homey and intimate feeling while traveling. Getting to know the owners and learning about local products is one the best parts of staying in the countryside!
The notorious agriturismo has in fact in the last thirty years exploded in Italy. It is a type of farm-stay where a majority of the products provided have to be grown by the owners themselves. These types of lodgings are typically apartment houses or villas in the countryside. Agriturismi are our favorite type of overnight stay as they offer such a refreshing and recharging experience.
Agriturismo Marinello
Our favorite of the countless agriturismi we’ve stayed at in Southern Tuscany was near the town of Pienza (which I highly recommend you visit and even use as a great base area). Agriturismo Marinello was just paradise. Our apartment home was complete with kitchen and 2 bedrooms and even had its own fireplace. (The owner will provide you with wood at a small fee if you ask).
The immense setting outdoors came with a pool, a bocce ball field (which we had so much fun using), and some very friendly dogs. Views of the rolling Tuscan hills embrace the apartment home 360 degrees and the breakfast (entirely made on the property) is just exquisite. To get to this agriturismo, you do have to drive about 15 minutes on a very rough dirt road (with potholes), but that is exactly what makes it such an untouched gem.
Podere il Casale
Although this is not an accommodation per se (unless you’re interested in camping), this is hands down the best farm to table restaurant we’ve been to in Tuscany. We went on a tour of the farm and got to know all the animals, from the goats to the piglets. We also got to learn all about the farm’s techniques in producing cheese and got to taste them at the cheese platter and cold cuts tasting. We were so impressed by the owners’ knowledge and the love and care of their animals that we stayed for lunch as well (where everything down to the honey was produced on the farm!) If you’re interested, make sure you book ahead of time!
So, there it is guys, my extensive guide on visiting the Bagni di Filippo Hot Springs. It is one of those places that changes according to season and never gets old. I’ve been three times, once in the spring and twice in the fall and I still can’t get enough!
I sincerely hope this guide convinces you to go explore off the unbeaten path these magical thermal baths in Tuscany. If you end up going or if you have any further tips, I would love to hear back from you in the comments!
Don’t forget to follow along on my adventures at @ladolcefitvita…
Happy Relaxation!
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