Naples to Procida Island: An Uncrowded Alternative to Capri

I’m sure you’ve all heard of uber famous Capri or Instagram-worthy Ischia, but what if I told you there was a third island near Naples that was more budget-friendly and just as breathtaking, if not more? Oh, and what if I told you it had waaaaaaaay less tourists? Well guess what? That island exists and it’s called Procida! The smallest and most colorful island in the Gulf of Naples, Procida is just a quick ferry ride away from Naples and is still somewhat off the beaten path. The next time you’re in Naples, the Amalfi Coast or in Southern Italy and want to escape the crowds on a charming day trip make sure you look into Procida Island.

Procida Island- Naple’s Hidden Gem

It’s quite funny that despite my living in Italy for 12 years, even as a local my knowledge of Procida was quite limited. I mean I had heard of it but I really had no clue of what it offered and I certainly didn’t know it was an island off Naples, Italy! It wasn’t until I spotted a picture of Marina Corricella that I was convinced to discover everything there was to know about the island and get myself there ASAP. So what did I discover?

Like neighboring Ischia, Procida is a volcanic island and is home to about 11.000 residents on a mere 4 square kms. This qualifies the island as the most densely populated area in all of Europe! The funny thing is that it doesn’t even remotely feel densely populated. On the contrary. At most times I really felt like I had the island to myself and since tourists aren’t that common, the local fishermen were always ready to share a piece of their heart by telling a story or two.

Honestly I just loved getting in touch with the history of the place and all for such an affordable price!

How to get to Procida from Naples

Getting from Naples to Procida is super easy- it’s just a short ferry-ride and as such works very well as a day-trip or as a weekend getaway if you have more time. There are two docks that ferries depart hourly from: Calata di Massa or Beverello. Generally speaking, the slower ferries (which transport cars as well) depart from Calata di Massa and take about an hour to get to Procida. The faster ferries (passengers only) depart from Beverello and the crossing takes about 30 minutes. (Both docks are within 10min walking distance from each other.) Depending on the journey time and the different stops on the way, you will be choosing from two different Naples to Procida Ferry Operators- SNAV or Caremar.

As for tickets I highly suggest booking them online to avoid queues. You still have to print them out at an automatic machine at the port but I only had two people in line in front of me as opposed to the 40+ people in line to purchase tickets. Plus with Italian standards it’s just always a good idea to plan ahead- you never know what might happen! I spent about 30 euro round-trip during low season (this price obviously increases exponentially during high season).

**Note: If instead you’re traveling from Rome, you can also catch a ferry in Pozzuoli instead of Naples.

Procida Transportation – How To Get Around The Island

When you get to Procida you will dock at Marina Grande, the only commercial port on the island. From here you have a couple options to getting to your accommodation. You can take public transportation, a taxi, rent an electric bicycle, or walk.

I highly discourage taking a taxi as they charge a flat rate of 12 euro and you can honestly walk anywhere on the island in a mere 30 mins. Having said that, Procida is rather hilly and can get quite hot. Walking for 40 minutes up and down cobblestoned streets can get quite frustrating. Reason being I absolutely recommend renting bicycles!

Bicycles

You’re going to want to get electric ones- trust me on this one! I’m pretty fit but the hills on Procida will kill you. Plus it’s what all the locals use to get around. I was able to save time and see everything that I wanted to see in less than 48 hours all the while feel like a local with the wind in my hair and my beach bag in my basket. I rented mine via my B&B and paid 20 euro per day. You can also rent them at the port but try talking with your hosts about bike rental- they often can organize much better deals for you.

**Note on Procida Roads: The roads in Procida are almost always cobblestone. Translated: the ride will get bumpy! I suggest cushioning your seat with a beach towel if you don’t want to feel the pain the next day. Also, the streets do have quite a bit of car traffic so beware of surpassing and being surpassed as the streets are super narrow.

**Note on Electrical Bikes– I’m sure most of you are way less clumsy than me but given the fact that I fell TWICE I feel like maybe this advice might help some…. or maybe it’s just an excuse to make myself feel better :D. So when riding make sure you switch the electric mode on and off according to necessity. I forgot to do that when I stopped… so when I started walking my bike (but not from the side, I had only dismounted it) it automatically kicked into electric mode and veered off. I not only completely and full-on crashed into a road sign, I did it with everyone watching me lol!

Things to do in Procida, Italy

Marina Corricella

This is hands down the most beautiful part of the entire island. A little fishermen’s harbor, all the houses and shops are painted in different pastel hues so as to make it easier for the fishermen in foggy weather to find their way back. If you’ve been to Burano Venice, it’s quite similar.

While wandering all the corners of the Marina I couldn’t help but feel like I was on the set of a movie.  You could find little old ladies laying out laundry to dry, vespas and fiat 500s casually parked out on doorsteps, fishermen peacefully whistling to Neapolitian tunes all the while untangling their nets- I mean it really felt like I was getting a glimpse of that quintessential Italian way of life. That “dolce far niente” that touches everyone and everything with such a carefree and laid back attitude. As I sipped at my limoncello spritz and observed the people I couldn’t help but feel such a simple peace. I can guarantee you will feel it too.

Terra Murata

The highest point on the island, this is best spot on Procida for photo opportunities. Not only do you get amazing views of Marina Corricella down below, but you also get an unobstructed view of the Gulf of Naples. Terra Murata which literally means “walled land” was constructed as a fortified quarter to protect residents from frequent pirate attacks. To this day, most of the doors on the outter walls are fake so as to confuse and stall pirates during invasions.

The island continues to have a strong connection to piracy to this day. So strong that in fact the patron saint of the island was chosen because it is said his miraculous apparition helped ward off a potentially devastating raid by Barbarossa. You can learn all about the patron saint Michele and the rich history and story of the island by visiting the Abbazia di San Michele with a guide.

Take a Tour of Palazzo d’Avalos, the Ex-Prison

Just outside the walls of Terra Murata lies the ex prison of Palazzo d’Avalos. The whole estate just resonates with energy and I highly recommend the tour. The prison previously was a Bourbon royal palace later turned into a maximum security prison in 1830. Unfortunately the Bourbons destroyed any element of design that could attribute the prison with royalty but the structure of the building remained intact and here and there you can catch glimpses of defiled frescos.

At any given time there were about 700 male inmates. The prisoners were all forced to work as farmers, carpenters or tailors and were kept in horrible conditions and subject to some of the cruelest forms of punishment. The tour is about 2 hours and costs 10 euros- do it! Seriously, of the things to do in Procida, this ended up being one of my favorites!

Borgo Vascello

Just at the foot of Terra Murata expands into another fortified neighborhood. Get lost in this labyrynth-like medieval ‘borgo’ and enjoy exploring colorful house after colorful house.

Kayak or Paddle Board

I loved the idea of being able to paddle board through the little bays and get a different perspective of the marinas. There are two spots where you can rent kayaks or paddle boards: one is Marina Chiaiolella and the other is Chiaia Beach. I rented mine from Chiaia beach because I knew there were grottos in the area that I could head out to explore! The cost for 1 hour was 15 euro, for 2 hours 20 euro.

Beach Day

On the opposite side of the island (which by the way is where the sun sets) is where most of the beaches are. The coast is basically one giant stretch of sand with beaches for all tastes. My favorite was Ciraccio because of the two beautiful sea stacks. Just keep in mind that Procida is a volcanic island and as such has dark sand. Also, if you want to avoid the crowds and secure a lounge chair you need to head out early, especially on the weekends.

Where to Eat in Procida

When in Procida there are three things you must eat. Number one, any and all seafood! Number two, limoncello spritz… or better yet, anything that has to do with lemons. And number three, “lingue di procida.” These are traditional puff pastries filled with lemon cream… omg, they are to die for it’s not even funny!

La Lampara

The most renowned restaurant on the entire island, La Lampara boasts the best views on Procida. It sits on a terrace overlooking Marina Corricella and offers some of the best seafood. Sip at your wineglass, enjoy the panorama and embrace the old dolce vita.  $$$

La Pergola

Although this is one of the only restaurants in Procida that doesn’t have a sea-view, it was my favorite. Tucked away in the center of the island on the largest lemon orchard of Procida, the restaurant just oozes of class. While the food is absolutely divine it is the stunning pergola full of lemons that you get to sit under that totally steals the scene. If you go, make sure to ask for one of their secret after-dinner digestifs… and it’s not limoncello! $$

Da Maria

Although this restaurant is right on the docks and thus quite less intimate than the others, this is where I had the best meal. I ordered a “zuppa di pesce,” a nice seafood stew and was just mind-blown. It was absolutely exquisite! Just make sure to ask the waiters to debone the fish so that you don’t make the mistake I did and take 45 mins to do it yourself lol.$$

Cool facts: The owner of the restaurant, Maria, is the only woman to have ever been a fisherman on the island. She opened the restaurant when she retired.

*Note on reservations: Make sure you always make reservations ahead of time- if it’s a Saturday make the reservation the day before.

Where to Happy Hour in Procida

Maresia

This spot not only is great for a sunset aperitif, it’s also great for a beach/pool day. Perched on a cliff overlooking the sea, you have the most amazing views and also have beach access via stairs! The bar is fantastic so you are never short of a cocktail and if you choose to lounge all day in the pool (I know I diiiiiid) you get to do it all in the company of some really awesome music. If you want to rent a cabana bed or lounge chair check out their prices here.

Where to Stay – Procida Hotels and B&bs

When browsing for accommodation in Procida I had two requirements: 1. The property had to have some kind of rental bike service; 2. I wanted either a sea-view or some insane sort of garden. When I found out that La Casa Sul Faro was set in a lemon orchard, it was a done deal. Every morning breakfast was served in the orchard and all the food was baked or made fresh with local ingredients each morning. My room had a little patio where I would sit out at night and gaze at the stars and pet Giacomino the local cat who became my new best friend. The place was just perfect and Claudia the host was incredibly helpful with organizing guest pick-up and drop-off.

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This blog post is intended for general informational and educational purposes only. Please read my full disclosure for further information.